Coq au vin/Rooster in wine sauce/Cocoș cu vin, with Babeasca Neagra by Vinitaly Deluxe

For the sake of the poetry I will not use the term rooster in my account of the recipe, but instead I will call it cocoș to point out it’s Romanian heritage and to emphasize the terroir from which this amazing dish will be reproduced four times for our guests at La George Butunoiu & Oskar’s. I say only four times because this noble bird comes from my farm in Contești and there are just a limited number of these lovely beasts that have reached the right maturity. This is not chicken or hen like many would be tempted to believe, but full grown cocoș, and this is why this recipe and the dish itself deserves a long recount.

Coq au vin is a classic French recipe and many would say it should be done with French ingredients, but I have discovered – and have talked about it many times – that the Romanian soil can produce equally wonderful products – too bad for the poor management of the resources. Everything in the plates that I serve is made from Romanian products, and the ones who have tasted them can understand why I chose to promote the true and honest peasants that still grow their vegetables and raise their stock in the traditional manner.
To discover more about the project 100%.ro, the effort to promote the Romanian land you can visit www.davidcontant.com.

This is not really a recipe in the way you would expect, it’s does not give precise measures, quantities or cooking times, it’s not a quick stir fry with supermarket chicken breast. This will be a story about the passing of time, respect for food and respect for ourselves.
Our cocoș arrives on Monday morning, featherless but whole, so I have to cut it into specific parts. It’s not an easy job because the bones are tough. A particular treat is the neck, but also the liver and some parts of the back. Every part of meat is cut with the bone so that the stock gets infused with flavor and the piece stays whole throughout the long cooking.

Like every classic recipe, coq au vin is put together so that every ingredient fits like a puzzle. Strong flavorsome celeriac, lovely bright carrots, sweet leeks and silky onions are peeled and cut into large pieces and placed together with the cocoș in a big cauldron with fragrant garlic cloves and bay leafs. Using two or three birds to satisfy our guests appetites, I pour about two bottles of wine into the pot so that all the ingredients are covered in the red liquid.

I chose Băbească Neagră for my Romanian cocoș and it wasn’t an accident. Even the name gives the note for a great compatibility. Băbeasca, deriving from the Romanian word for old woman or grandmother – babă – is a rustic and quite acidic wine that will be good in the marinade for a tough meat such as the cocoș. As I stand for the exploration of Romania’s patrimony, I chose this ancient grape variety. Even more the Băbească Neagră from Sapata comes from a virtually ignored part of the country, the county of Tulcea, but with great conditions for winemaking.

It’s 9 o’clock, on Wednesday morning.  After two days of bathing in wine, it’s time to start the preparation of the coq au vin. The liquid is strained and the meat is separated from the vegetables. In a very large, well oiled cooking pan, the pieces of meat are browned thoroughly on every side. After removing the meat, I toss the vegetables in the pan so they get caramelized in the oil infused with cocoș flavor. But in between the vegetables I never forget to place a few chunks of slănina, a very nicely slated and smoked cut of pork fat with the rind attached. This will add another dimension to the tartness of the wine sauce.

After the vegetables get a nice color the pan is deglazed with the reserved wine, the meat is placed back in the pan and eight hours of simmering begin. At the first boil you can see the vegetables playing around like children around the understanding grandfather that is the cocoș. They run around in the wine, while the bird steadily starts to soften.

Such a great dish takes time: the time for the bird to reach maturity, the time of marinating, the time for cooking, so it deserves a laborious side dish – homemade tagliatelle and glazed baby onions. It also wouldn’t be real coq au vin if I didn’t add chopped mushrooms and petits lardons – pieces of smoked pork breast specially brought from Ardeal.

After about seven or eight hours of cooking the meat feels tender. It’s time to thicken the sauce. I use a roux made with truffle infused flour. The time is 18:30, I adjust the seasoning and wait for my guests. Coq au vin is a special dish and has to be served in just the right way – in a cocotte, with homemade bread croutons. The true delight is to dive through the cocotte for the morceau’s that have fallen of the bone and to soak the bread in the velvet-like sauce. The carrots and the baby onions give a balanced sweetness, while the mushrooms and truffles remind us that the cocoș, even though a bird, does not fly, but is one with the terroir.

Culinary regards
David Contant

PS. I decided to write in English because my efforts to attract support from the Romanian public seem tedious. I’m hoping these articles will appeal to a wider English speaking public and this land that I love so much will receive the appreciation it greatly deserves.

PPS: Please don’t drink coffee before and during the meal, it will numb your taste buds!

Toc Chef

Hello,

It’s about “Top Chef”,  a tv show where the most talented 24 chefs in the country are fighting for the first title “Top Chef Romania”. The prize is 50.000 euro and a training course in France, in a Michelin star restaurant.

Everything in Top Chef will be at its best, the jury, competitors, samples, ingredients, equipment, accessories, outer locations, and especially the set.

We are filming form 20 september to 30 october, 3 days per week. The days are not established yet, that’s why, in this periode you should be on our disposal.

If you are interested we invite you to come for a discussion with our producers on 31 august (friday) or 3 september (Monday), in Baneasa, “Inav” building, 4th floor, Ficusului 44A street. We are going to be there the whole day so you can come any time.

In attachment  below you will find a questionare wich must be fill in by you with some personal data. If it’s possible you can send me also your Cv.

I’m waiting for your response!

Thank you and I hope to have you in our show! 

Asa a inceput povestea.

Mi-am exprimat, cu diferite ocazii, parearea despre show-ul TV de bucatarie, care s-a incheiat week-end-ul trecut, anume Top Chef, sau Toc Chef, cum prefer eu sa ii spun, nu de alta, dar din motivele pe care vi le voi descrie in continuare, nu consider ca notiunea de top i se potriveste in vreun fel.

Nu obisnuiesc sa vorbesc din auzite, deci ceea va voi povesti, sunt concluzii si relatari din contactul meu direct cu acest spectacol TV, mai precis, in faza de preselectie a lui. Chiar daca, privind inapoi, sunt foarte bucuros ca nu m-am asociat acestei productii, in modul in care s-a desfasurat, inainte de a incepe, promovarea acesteia, suna extrem de promitator, in special avand in vedere standardul la care se desfasoara acelsi format, in Europa si SUA.

Am aflat, din intamplare, din mediul online, despre demararea productiei Top Chef. M-a mirat faptul ca mediatizarea preselectiei era aproape absenta.  Am contactat producatorii spectacolului TV, pentru a participa la acesta. Nu am cerut niciun privilegiu de vreun fel, avand in vedere ca nu sunt tocmai un debutant. La momentul in care i-am contactat, juriul fusese deja stabilit, deci imi ramanea doar varianta de a participa in calitate de concurent. 

Nu era deloc un statut nedemn, chiar pentru un chef consacrat, pentru ca, participantii erau anuntatati ca cei mai buni bucatari ai Romaniei (incluzand bucatarii straini din tara si diaspora romana).

M-am prezentat la preselectie, cu asteptari potrivite unei astfel de competitii de prestigiu. Am ajuns intr-un loc in care nimic nu trada legatura cu o competitie culinara de anvergura. A fost o prima impresie rece, intr-un spatiu industrial si impersonal, fara caracterul si identitatea anuntate. Pentru candidatii din provincie, nu era nici macar un serviciu de catering, nici macar un scaun. Aspect foarte important, atat timp cat ora 11:00, anuntata, s-a transformat in 12:30… Toate acestea ma fac sa ma indoiesc de imaginea promovata, si de legatura cu formatul original al show-ului.

Acesta a fost momentul in care am aflat si componenta juriului. Surpriza: Joseph Hadad face parte din juriu. Despre colaborarea cu domnia sa, am scris un un articol, in restograf.ro, in care imi spun clar parerea, nu tocmai in cei mai elogiosi termeni ( http://www.restograf.ro/nunta-secolului-vazuta-din-bucatarie/). Aveam deja un hadicap important in fata celorlalti concurenti, dar aveam incredere in aptitudinile mele in bucatarie, chiar in fata celor mai buni bucatari ai Romaniei. Eram motivat si de perspectiva de a imi promova propriul program, prin participarea mea in aceasta competitie si anume, promovarea produselor naturale romanesti, si dezvoltarea unei scoli culinare in Romania.

Sunt chemat in camera de casting, in care erau doua persoane din echipa de productie si juriul. Acolo ma astepta urmatoarea surpriza: nu era nicio unealta de bucatarie prin care concurentii care s-au prezentat la acest casting, sa isi demonstreze abilitatile. Care ar putea fi, atunci, criteriile de preselectie? Dau mana cu membrii echipei de productie si cu membrii juriului, pe care ii cunosteam dinainte: Nicolai Tand, Tudor Constantinescu si Joseph Hadad. Cu cel din urma, aveam primul contact dupa un an, dupa publicarea articolului mentionat. Avand in vedere ca in acel articol m-am exprimat foarte explicit in privinta unui eveniment al carui meniu il organizase, ma intrebam daca zambetul pe care il afisa era unul ipocrit, sau era o recunoastere a observatiilor mele. Pana la urma, erau observatii pertinente, strict profesionale. Nu am nimic personal nici cu ceilalti doi si nici cu afacerile in domeniul restauratiei pe care acestia le conduc. Am mai specificat acest aspect si cu alte ocazii, dar il repet, pentru ca, dupa o afirmatie publicata de mine, in care comentam lipsurile organizarii Top Chef, Nicolai Tand m-a insultat si m-a amenintat in public, cu ocazia unei intalniri inopinate, in Piata 1 Mai, reclamand deserviciile pe care remarcile mele le-ar fi adus imaginii sale profesionale. Singura problema, este ca aceasta competitie, este prima, dintre toate formatele Top Chef, care este jurizata de non-chef-i. In nicio competitie culinara, eu nu am fost jurizat decat de chef-i , or Tudor Constantinescu are formatie de patissier, iar Nicolai Tand, de ospatar. Oricat de repectabile ar fi aceste meserii sau afacerile pe care acesti domni le conduc si intr-adevar sunt, pana la urma chef-ii jurizeaza chef-i. In special, pe cel mai bun chef al Romaniei. Eu, in calitate de chef cuisinier nu mi-as permite sa jurizez o comptitie de ospatari sau patissier-i.

In timpul discutiei de preselectie, la intrebarea despre motivatia mea pentru participarea in aceasta competitie culinara, le-am povestit pe scurt depre promovarea produselor naturale romanesti si despre intentia de a dezvolta o scoala culinara in Romania. Totul nu a durat mai mult de 7-8 minute. Mi-au urat bun venit in competitie, dupa care ne-am salutat la fel de politicos, urmand sa aflu detaliile “maine”. Aceasta preselectie a fost filmata, deci exista dovada a ceea ce zic, in arhiva Antenei 1. Dupa 24 de ore, nimic. Doar dupa 5 zile, timp in care eu mi-am anulat angajamentele  profesionale pe care le aveam in perioada filmarilor, soseste un e-mail de la Antena 1, in care mi se explica faptul ca prezenta mea, in calitate de concurent, in aceasta competitie, ar distruge concurenta, din cauza unei “diferente imense” intre mine si ceilalti candidati. Altfel spus, ma considerau mult prea bun, in comparatie cu cei mai buni chef-i ai Romaniei... Prin urmare, mi se confirma aparitia episodica, ca guest chef, in cadrul competitiei. Avand in vedere ca imi anulasem angajamentele profesionale intr-o perioada de varf in aceasta bransa, le trimit un raspuns in care imi exprim nemultumirea in legatura cu situatia creata. De atunci…liniste. 

                                                                     foto: Rebecca Fondren

                                 Paul Qui, castigator Top Chef SUA                         

Pentru concurenti, exista un contract cu clauze de confidentialitate, dar si de exclusivitate. Adica, chef-ii nu aveau voie sa participle, in acelasi timp, la alta competitie culinara. Atunci, de ce a fost, oare, programata productia spectacolului TV, Top Chef , in aceeasi perioada cu Olimpiada Culinara, un eveniment major in calendarul acestui domeniu. Pe care dintre cele doua competitii este de asteptat ca un chef roman sa o aleaga? Nu a fost prezent niciun castigator al Golden Chef, competitie a Federatiei Bucatarilor din Romania, niciun memru al fostei echipe  a Restaurantului Heritage, un reper al bucatariei gastronomice din Romania, cum ar fi, fosta mea sous-chef, Marie, acum in Franta, sau Daniel Stoenescu, locul 6 in competitia Bocusse D’Or, nici membrii importanti ai diasporei romane, ca Loredan Gargalac, care este pe cale de a castiga steaua Michelin. Acestia sunt numai cativa posibili purtatori ai titlului de cel mai bun bucatar al Romaniei. Sunt sigur ca fiecare dintre noi stim chef-i de mare valoare si va invit sa ii mentionati, pentru ca efortul lor trebuie recunoscut. Nu pot sa nu ma intreb: Este posibil ca cel mai bun nici sa nu fi ajuns in competitie? A fost el/ea dorit/a, macar, in aceasta competitie? 

                               Jean Imbert, castigator Top Chef Franta

Cat despre concurentii care au ajuns in competitie, ar fi fost de preferat sa invete termenii tehnici, in primii ani de formare profesionala, nu intr-o competitie de top. Atunci cand nu se folosesc termenii tehnici, sau se folosesc gresit, nu putem spune ca am vazut profesionisti la televizor. Unii dintre ei ar face mai bine daca ar relua scoala si ar reveni peste 10 ani. In afara de patru concurenti, ceilalti nu au intrat, cu adevarat, in competitie. O victorie amara pentru castigator.                                

Aceeasi impresie o avem si cand vedem, ca sponsor al competitiei, Knorr si Coca-Cola. Indiferent de preferintele culinare in interiorul bucatariei familiei, in bucataria profesionista, care se respecta, ar trebui promovata alta imagine. Nu face decat sa amplifice confuzia mesajului: bucatarie profesionista, de gospodine, sau fast-food? Fiecare trage concluzia proprie. Nu prea au inteles nimic nici amatorii de semipreparate sau hamburger-i, dar nici cei ce se asteptau la gastronomie. Poate ca asta explica si audienta scazuta. Un asemenea show, nu pune Romania pe harta. Va invit sa urmariti acelasi format, produs in Franta, Germania, sau SUA. Aici, eu am inchis televizorul dupa al doilea episod.

Sper ca acest punct de vedere, exprimat in mod transparent, nu ca preselectia Top Chef, sa lamureasca toate suspiciunile legate de asa-zisele remarci subiective sau malitioase pe care le-as fi facut pana acum. Daca cineva a fost insultat in toata aceasta poveste, eu am fost acela. Dumneavoastra cum v-ati simtit ca privitor? Cum credeti ca s-au simtit chef-ii cu adevarata valoare ai Romaniei, care nu au fost luati in considerare, sa-i vada pe “cei mai buni chef-i”, la televizor?

Dupa toate acestea, inca nu mi-am pierdut speranta in profesionistii adevarati din domeniul bucatariei acestei tari si nici intr-o bucatarie gastronomica romaneasca autentica, care are toate premisele sa existe. Ci dimpotriva! Trebuie doar sa le dam o sansa si sa incepem sa facem lucrurile temeinic, nu numai pentru spectacol.

Culinary regards,

David Conatnt

Pastrav somonat facon graved lachs

Ingrediente: file de pastrav somonat, mere, marar, zahar brun, suc de mere, miere, sare grunjoasa.

Se presara zahar brun peste file-ul de pastrav somonat, apoi se presara marar tocat, miere, sare grunjoasa, se acopera cu feliile de mar, se acopera totul cu sare din belsug. 

Se stropeste cu reductie de suc de mere.

Se pastreaza la rece 6 ore, apoi se inlatura toate ingredientele si se spala bine file-ul.